Lets just say that not all days on the camino are blissfull and full of enlightenment. Like yesterday for instance; I was about to arrive in the albergue that had a pool (#5 for the record on my camino) but the last mile into that albergue was difficult. The beginning of the day was amazing! There was an uphill section that beat all the previous ones; it was right after where I took the sunflower photo. The top gave us peregrino's a view from the top :) and then there was a downhill section that was straight down! Even the crazy bikers were on foot and didn't ride it. It was unbelievably steed but good. Then across the meseta and under a shade tree were locals that were just waiting in the shade for us peregrino's to arrive and they offered (for whatever donation we wanted to make); water, beer, pop, oranges &banana. Amazing people here. It was a perfect break. Then the day went on and it was very out in the sun, by the end of the days hike; I was walking with Xunta (he seemed about 26) and his girlfriendd who was about 2 blocks ahead of him. We were tired of walking and tired of the heat and just tired plain & simple. The village was in sight; it was almost 2pm and because of the pool, I was worried I would arrive after it was completo (full) When we are this slow, our feet really hurt, i am honestly using my breathing techniques from childbirth classes and trying to continue walking and just not focus on the pain in my feet. The cobblestones under my hiking boots are noticeable. walk, walkwalk, focus, don't look up at the village because it may just be a 'mirage' at this point. It seems to never get closer. A couple of times I litterally scream at the sky! AAAAARRRGGGG!!
The 'courteous' things for the bicycling peregrinos who are about to pass those of us on foot is to 'ding their bell' as they approach so we know to stay to the side and allow them through without incident. Yesterday, in our exhaustion this biker peregrino passed so fast and without a 'ding ding' and literally touchd my shoulder to his shoulder! I was caught off guard, and shocked! I had been talking with Xunta for about about an hour and the biker scared me because I could have stepped into his path unknowing of him coming. Apparently his 'ding ding bell' finger was either exhausted or broken. Well MY FINGER on the other hand was perfectly functional and I proceeded to give him the bird and yelled "Use your Fucking Bell!" .... very much in the spirit of the Camino (NOT).
Then we arrived at the albergue and guess how many cama's (beds) remained? One! Xunta and his girlfriend has reservations at another albergue and I decided that I got lucky because God favors the weak.
This morning I woke up nice and early and got going, walking along a river and hello biker peregrinos...only this morning I got to see biker crack. Much like plumber crack but only on bike going by you quickly. I was like "really? You can't feel the breeze in your cheeks?" ok so now I am realizing that I might be suffering from Camino Rage. It's uncommon but it does happen. I think I need a day of rest but I hate to take it for fear of getting behind schedule anymore than I already am.
Along the last part of the river, across it I see a local gentleman fishing! I yell hola and he's pulling his net out of the river - seems like a good catch from the smile on his face. 20 minutes later, I am off of the river path and into town and a mini van pulls up next to me and stops, the guy smiles, gets out and I am thinking... who are you? he opens his back hatch, and I'm thinking I don't need a ride .. but thanks??!?? He pulls out his bucket of crawfish! It was the fisherman from the river! I didn't recognize him up close. He wanted to show me what he caught! how sweet! a bucket of crawfish - a hundred or more? Then we take the photos of happiness and I start walking again. Then a gentleman about a block up the street is working on his bike (they all have them) and I stop to say hello and chat and his front door is wide open- I can see into the house and he says "please come in for cafe con leche" (my American fear of don't go into houses where you don't know people is quickly ignored) and his lovely wife is sweeping the floors and we sit for coffee! He draws me a map of where I am in the camino and I am somehwere near the middle according to him.I draw him a map of where Kansas is in Estados Unidos (United States). 30 minutes later, Iam back on the road! A couple of hours later I am getting tired, passed a sheep farmer and stopped to take photos, a local couple passed me on their daily walk and wished me Buen Camino. Then into the next spanish village and I am stopped for cafe conleche and in walks the couple from the pasture. They bought my cafe con leche and double cheek (not like the bikers double cheeks) but a kiss left, kiss right, kind of well wishing. What a day! 2 cups of free coffee and after my poor behavior yesterday with my middle finger.
Ok - 5 miles to the days finish and the place I am at now doesn't have internet (this was written yesterday &posted today).this place is kinda like a Bob Marley hangout. I was sitting here eating my mixta salad (salad w/ tuna & olive oil and vinegar) and apparently my ride for the next stage has arrived at the front of the door; his name is Emilio. He is a donkey! He likes cheetos!
Then Claire from France came in the bar, she had been crying. She's been here 2 days; sick and trying to heal. She thanked me and my happy blue eyes for walking in the door! She said Ithought I'd never see you again. I walk so much faster. I said, I am always coming along behind you....it just takes me a while to get there. In light of her sadness and my affection for a bar that allows Emelio to wander freely, I decided to stay the night. Will write more tomorrow or later about this little slice of heaven.




I love your writing Kay , you really got style!Always anxiously waiting for next day's events.
ReplyDeleteWhen you're back home you have to write a book about your Camino adventure! Buen Camino !!!
Thank you Mal! I am trying to write as acurately as the day & feelings emerge. Somedays the emotional journey is as challenging as the physical journey.
ReplyDelete